and Agra are indissolubly connected by their rulers and by
historical events; in leaving them one feels as if never again would so
much of unique interest be presented in the line of architectural skill
and poetic sentiment.

* * * * *

CAWNPORE, _December 24th_: We took a night train from Agra to Cawnpore,
arriving there early on the morning of December 24th and stopping over
a few hours to break the journey. Cawnpore is full of mutiny memories,
and we visited some of the historic points, going first to the Ghat
(steps) where cruel Nana Sahib burned, or murdered, a boatload of
Englishmen; also to other scenes of horror. Then we went to the memorial
well, and to the memorial church with its peaceful interior, which was
being decorated with greens in true English fashion, for the service of
the morrow, when "Peace and good will to men" would ring out, and for
the time being mutiny memories would be forgotten. We drove to the park,
where, as an accessory to a certain artistic building, there is to be
seen an exquisite angel of carved marble, a memorial erected by the
Government. Next, we visited some bazars of no special interest.

* * * * *

LUCKNOW, _December 24th_: After luncheon, we took the train for Lucknow.
On the way, Murray's "Lucknow" was re-read, and another mutiny chapter
added. Lucknow is the capital of the province of Oudh. In 1813 the
English conferred the title of king on the ruler, but, for reasons of
distrust, withdrew it in 1856, and at the same time discharged eighty
thousand high-caste soldiers,--an action which produced instant
dissatisfaction and was one of the direct causes for the mutiny. We
arrived at Wutzler's Royal Hotel in the late afternoon, and felt
gladdened by the comfort and good cheer that awaited us,--a hopeful sign
inasmuch as the morrow was Christmas Day. A drive to Wingfield Park and
a visit to an exquisite tomb mosque ended the sight-seeing day.

[Illustration: _Jasmine Tower and distant view of the Taj_]

[Illustration: _The ghat at Cawnpore_]

Christmas without the usual morning service seemed peculiar, but the law
of the majority in our party prevailed, and we drove instead to the Fort
and Residency, the centre of interest since 1857. The awe and solemnity
inspired by that visit, with the Christmas bells ever and anon breaking
the silence, can never be forgotten. The Residency is situated in the
centre of a larg