h Jahan; the
latter has a prototype in modern times,--none other than Ludwig II of
Bavaria, whose palaces also linger in the memory as a dream of beauty.

* * * * *

AGRA, _December 18th_: No one can visit Delhi and Agra without being
impressed by the rulers of the golden period of the Mogul Empire, the
great Akbar standing forth prominently as a wise potentate and the
strongest personality in Indian history, certainly in Central India. His
son, Jahangir, was not his equal, but his mantle of power seems to have
descended to his grandson, Shah Jahan, who, like him, was famed in the
matter of building, as we have seen at Delhi, and furthermore were to
see at Agra, our next point of observation. We arrived on the afternoon
of December 18th and proceeded to the Hotel Metropole.

As the train approached the city, we caught a glimpse of that
incomparable creation, the Taj Mahal, and were immediately under its
spell, so we at once took carriages and were conveyed there. As we drew
near, the massive, finely proportioned gateway burst upon us. The
entrance is of red sandstone, with Moorish arches and pavilions, while a
wall of masonry, with turreted corners, encircles the grounds. At the
centre of the two adjacent sides are gateways of similar construction to
the entrance. One is, however, unprepared for the white-domed vision
beyond, which at once inspired admiration and awe. The first view was at
sunset, and the atmosphere was filled with a golden haze that rested
lovingly on the graceful turrets and dome. We lingered on to catch the
moonlight effect, and as the twilight faded and the outlines became
shadowy, there was a peculiar illusion, which was heightened by the
first glimmering silvery light, soon to be succeeded by a full radiance
which illumined the white marble pile and the whole environment. We sat
spellbound amidst the loveliness of the scene; no one spoke, and this
silent tribute of respect was shared by other "lookers on."

[Illustration: _Kutub Minar, the Tower of Victory in Old Delhi_]

Our last visit was in the full effulgence of the morning, when we were
able to obtain new points of view, and to visit the adjacent red
sandstone mosque, as well as the corresponding opposite edifice (which
is an audience room). Some of the party crossed the river Jumna, which
runs back of the grounds, so as to see the reflection of the Taj in the
water. No words of mine can fitly describe the i