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IRREGULAR SATINS

_Satin Turc._

On 4 shafts straight through.

[Illustration: Fig. 53]

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[Page 40]
_Satin a la Reine_

On 6 shafts straight draw.

[Illustration: Fig. 54]

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[Page 41]
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DERIVATIVE WEAVES

#1. From the Taffeta#

_Royale_ is a modification of the regular Gros de Tours, inasmuch as the
rib line, which in the latter runs straight across the cloth, is broken off
after a given number of warp-threads. These groups, which may comprise 8,
12 or more threads, will interlace each one pick higher than the preceding
one.

_Royale of 8 ends_

On 2 sections of 4 shafts each.

[Illustration: Fig. 55]

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_Velours Ottoman or Faille francaise._

In order to obtain a broader rib than that of Gros de Tours, and at the
same time to lend firmness to the fabric, we add to the ground warp, which
forms the ribs, another or binder warp, which works continually taffeta,
[Page 42]
while the ground warp changes only every 3 or 4 picks for the rib.

_Faille francaise._

4 ends of ground on the first section of 8 shafts, skip draw.
1 " binder " second " 2 "

[Illustration: Fig. 56]

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_Velours Ottoman without a Binder-warp._

In this weave, of which Fig. 57 illustrates a specimen, comprising 8
warp-threads and 32 picks in a repeat, the rib contains 4 picks. Of the 8
warp-threads, 3 float over and 3 under the rib, while the 2 others bind
taffeta, which latter function is executed by 2 other threads in the next
rib.

[Page 43]
[Illustration: Fig. 57]

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2. From the Twills

One variety is obtained by interlacing the warp-threads alternately one or
more picks behind, and then a number of picks ahead of their respective
neighbors; so the complete arrangement of the points of binding in a repeat
will generally form two parallel diagonal lines. This will cause the twill
lines to appear less pronounced than is the case in the regular twill, and
the character of the fabric approaches more that of t