stration: Fig. 86]

* * * * *

[Page 65]
CHECKS AND PLAIDS

If pekin and bayadere stripes are combined, we obtain checked fabrics, and
of these an endless variety and pleasing effects can be produced with the
aid of suitable color combinations.

#Check#

of 16 threads and 12 picks of the 4 end broken twill,
and 16 " " 12 " " Royale of 8 threads,
drawn on 4 sections of 4 shafts each.

[Illustration: Fig. 87]

* * * *

[Page 66]
#Check#

of 20 threads and 16 picks of 8-shaft Satin,
" 20 " " 16 " " Taffeta,
4 " " Surah 3-1,
drawn on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.

[Illustration: Fig. 88]

* * * * *

[Page 67]
DECOMPOSITION

Under the name of _Disposition_ we comprise all those points and details
which we must ascertain before we can proceed with the construction of a
fabric. They are:

1. #The weave.#

2. #Length and width of the cloth.#

3. #The stock and the dyeing thereof.#

4. #Reed calculation# (number of dents and ends per inch and total number
of dents required).

5. #Drawing-in the warp in harness and reed.#

6. #Texture and arrangement of warp# (warping ticket)

7. #Arrangement of harness.#

8. #Reduction of filling.#

9. #Calculation of warp and filling.#

10. #Finishing.#

11. #Calculation of cost.#

[Page 68]
1. THE WEAVE

If a given sample is to be reproduced or imitated, it must be analyzed, and
the following hints will greatly facilitate this operation to the beginner.

Cut the sample straight on two sides, and draw out a number of warp and
filling threads until there is a small fringe of perhaps 1/4 of an inch. This
will allow a thread to be raised a little for examination, without danger
of its falling out of the fabric. In most cases it is easier to dissect the
filling side, that is, the interlacing of each warp-thread in the threads
of the filling system. With the help of the microscope or counting glass we
can easily determine over and under how many picks that thread passes and
the points of interlacing are accordingly mark