he can produce the article. That this must be done with
great accuracy is naturally of the utmost importance, and the calculator
[Page 73]
must know in the first place the raw stock prices, and also be acquainted
with the details of the manufacturing process and the rates of wages paid
therein. As a rule, the manufacturer establishes a scale of prices covering
all the items of labor cost, mill expenses, etc., and uses this as a basis
for his calculations.

A rule or formula for this operation cannot very well be given, as the
methods vary in almost every establishment, each choosing the one best
adapted to its ideas or dictates of circumstances and conditions.

[Page 75]
DISPOSITION 1

_Taffeta glace_

[Illustration: Fig. 89]

[Page 76]
#Length and Width#--One piece 100 yards long, 183/4 inches wide.

#Stock and Dye#--_Warp._--Ital. Organ., 24/26 deniers = 1,47 drams,
brown, bright, 14/16 oz.
_Filling._--Japan Tram, 28/30 deniers = 1,65 drams,
gold, bright 14/16 oz.

#Reed Calculation#--Per 1 inch, 70 dents at 3 single ends.
" 183/4 " 1313 "
add 13 " = 1% for shrinkage
----
Total 1326 dents.

#Drawing in#--1st edge, 9 dents at 3 double ends.
Ground, 1308 " at 3 single "
2d edge, 9 " at 3 double "
on 6 shafts, straight through.

#Warping Ticket#--1st edge, 27 double ends, brown.
Ground, 3924 single " "
2d edge, 27 double " "
----
Total 4032 single ends.
Length of warp 110 yards, including 10% for take up.

#Harness#--6 shafts, 3978 heddles per 19 inches.
1 " 35 " " 1 "

#Reduction of Filling#--Per inch, 100/102 picks, 2 ends.

#Warp Calculation#--? lbs = 4032 ends.
1 end = 110 yards.
1000 yards = 1,47 drams.
256 drams = 1 lb.
100 = 104 (4% waste).

4032x110x1,47x104
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