gh to make the floats
cover up the taffeta work entirely, and thus enable the material used to
show up with the full brilliancy it possesses.

Cannele effects can be produced in two distinct ways. One is to let every
individual thread work alternately taffeta and float, while in the other
method one thread weaves always taffeta, and a second thread is used for
the cannele exclusively. These latter threads must come from a separate
warp, which is introduced to embellish the ground or taffeta part of the
fabric.

The floating threads can either stitch all on one pick and so form a
continuous cut line, or be divided in groups, of which one will bind in the
middle of the floats of the other group. The following designs show both
the face and backside of the respective weaves:

[Page 50]
_Alternating Cannele_ of 6 picks.

On 4 shafts, straight through.

[Illustration: Fig. 66]

* * * *

_Canelle_ (2 beams). Over 3 picks, interlacing on every fourth pick, drawn
end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.

[Illustration: Fig. 67]

* * * *

[Page 51]
_Cannele_ over 5 picks, binding on the sixth, but every second thread
advanced 3 picks (to the middle of the float of the first thread), drawn
end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.

[Illustration: Fig. 68]

* * * *

[Page 52]
_Cannele_ arranged in groups of 8 threads, floating over 6 picks and
binding on the seventh and eighth, drawn on 2 sections, with 4 shafts in
first and 2 in second section.

[Illustration: Fig. 69]

* * * *

_Repp_ on 8 shafts straight through. Rotation of filling. 1 pick taffeta, 1
pick float (rib).

[Illustration: Fig. 70]

* * * *

[Page 53]
_Repp_ of 8 threads, on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 ends per section.

[Illustration: Fig. 71]

* * * *

_Repp_ of 5 threads, binding on the sixth; every second pick binds on the
middle of the first pick. On 6 harness straight draw.

[Illustration: Fig. 72]

* * * *

[Page 54]
_Rep