urning. Black furs, lynx, fox or Persian lamb are
worn.

Many women wear narrow lawn turn-over collars and cuffs; they are
hemstitched, with no other decoration. Black-bordered handkerchiefs are no
longer carried; if, however, one's woeful trappings must extend to this
detail, the narrower the edge the better.

[MANNERS AND SOCIAL CUSTOMS 753]

Either black glace kid or suede gloves are worn. Shoes and slippers must
be in a dull kid finish.

All white may be worn in summer during the later period of mourning, but
combinations of black and white are not mourning; thus a white dress with
black ribbons is not correct.

Jewelry (in gold), ostrich feathers, velvet, lace, satin, and jet
trimmings, except in dull jet, are barred. One may wear a diamond or pearl
ring or two, but no colored jewels set in rings. Some women have outer
shells made in black enamel to enclose diamond ear-rings they are
accustomed to wearing.

If one wears mourning, she should hold to the correct form. If, however,
she elects to wear black, more license is permitted her. Whatever is done,
should be consistent. Thus if she simply adopts black she may have a net
or all-over lace yoke in a gown, may wear hats with wings and quills or
fancy feathers in black, or black flowers--which are botanical
monstrosities--whereas in correct mourning she could not.

The Period of Mourning.--The length of time during which mourning is to be
worn has been considerably shortened of recent years. Widows formerly wore
deep mourning-crepe, bombazine, etc., for two years, and "second
mourning" for another year. Now, even among the most rigid sticklers for
form, two years is the limit, and there is a tendency to diminish this
period. Eighteen months of woe inconsolable; six months of grief assuaged.
Nor are all recreations debarred the widow, as formerly; she may go to
concerts, small entertainments, even to matinees, after some months have
elapsed. This is as it should be. Many women have settled into gloom and
despondency which have darkened their homes because there has been nothing
to lift them out of their low frame of mind.

For a parent, a grown son or daughter, the conventional period is two
years, one year of deep mourning. For a young child a mother wears black
for a year. The same time suffices for a brother or sister. Six months
answers for grandparents; three for an uncle or aunt. Often one does not
wear mourning except for husband, child or parent.