brother, so that, looking back, I can remember but one
gown I had, between the age of sixteen and thirty-one, that was not
black--and the one exception never had a chance to get worn out."

The Expense of Mourning.--Mourning, however, is sometimes a distraction.
In deciding about trimmings and the width of crepe hems many a woman
forgets her woe, for a time at least. Mourning wear is expensive, and to
clothe a whole family in black totals no inconsiderable sum. Many families
have been financially swamped through the expenses of an illness, a
burial, and the conventional mourning. In this instance, as in the case of
weddings, all these things should be regulated by common sense. A costly
casket, a profusion of flowers and a long funeral procession merely
gratify a foolish and ostentatious pride on the part of the survivors, and
often entail a heavy burden on the father or husband.

It is quite customary to borrow the black garments worn at the funeral.
These should be returned immediately after the funeral, with a message or
note of thanks.

It is well to look over one's wardrobe to see what garments may be colored
for use during the period of mourning. The art of the dyer has made such
progress that very satisfactory results are obtained, and quite wealthy
people do not hesitate to resort to this expedient.

Mourning Wear.--Crepe, ugly, expensive and easily ruined by dust and
dampness, is no longer indispensable to a mourning outfit. If used at all,
it is in the form of hems or narrow bands on face veils and as borders or
facings, on gowns. Even widows, who wear the deepest mourning, no longer
wear crepe veils.

All dress materials for mourning wear have a dull finish. Henrietta,
imperial serges, tamese cloth and nun's veiling are the standard fabrics.
A lusterless silk is sometimes employed, also crepe de chine.

Crepe is used as a trimming only during the first period of mourning. Hats
have almost entirely replaced bonnets, except for elderly widows, who
often adopt the close-fitting Marie Stuart bonnet, with the white ruche
inside the brim. A long veil of fine silk nun's veiling is worn with this,
with a tulle or net face veil with a narrow fold of crepe. Veils of crepe
or nun's veiling are not worn over the face except at the funeral.

Hats with crepe folds and trimmings, with veils arranged to fall in folds
in the back are usually selected; with them is worn a plain net face veil.
Dotted veils are not mo