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d held together with small rivets. Holes should be punched or drilled in the side of the firebox to give the burner a sufficient supply of air. The burner is illustrated clearly in Fig. 52. The fuel-tank can be made from an ordinary tin can with the cover soldered on, and a hole made for a cork by means of which it is filled with denatured alcohol. A little pipe runs from the fuel-tank to the burner. It is advisable, if possible, to place a small valve in this pipe to cut off the fuel supply when necessary. The only other method of putting the burner out would be to stand it on its end. The burner consists of a rectangular tin box with a top cut out as illustrated. A piece of brass or copper gauze is placed in the top. Asbestos wool is used to fill the can, and the alcohol is drawn into the wool by capillary attraction, where it burns with a steady hot flame at the surface of the copper gauze. In the corner of the can near the feed-pipe another small piece of copper gauze is soldered as shown. This covers up the feed-pipe entrance so that the asbestos will not plug up the pipe. [Illustration: FIG. 53] [Illustration: FIG. 54] The engine to be used in connection with the boiler just described is shown in Fig. 53. This is a very simple engine of the oscillation type, and there should be little trouble in making it. A more mechanical drawing of the engine is shown in Fig. 54. The details of the engine are shown in Fig. 55. [Illustration: FIG. 55] The cylinder of the engine should be made first. This is made from a piece of brass tubing with an internal diameter of 3/4 inch. Two end pieces, or a cylinder-end cover and cylinder head, must be cut to fit inside the cylinder. These should be cut to shape from 1/16 inch brass, and a hole drilled in the cylinder head 1/8 inch in diameter to accommodate the piston-rod. The cylinder head is then soldered in place. The cylinder-end cover should be left until the piston-rod and piston are made. The piston head is cut to shape from a piece of 3/16-inch sheet brass, or it can be cut from a piece of 3/4-inch round brass with a hacksaw. The piston-rod is soldered into a hole in the piston-head. A small square piece of brass is placed on the opposite end of the piston-rod to act as a bearing. This little piece is cut and drilled as shown in the drawing. Before it is soldered in place on the piston-rod the cylinder-end cover should be placed on the rod. Both the piston and the
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