fresh running water is in itself a fine object.
We crossed the narrow neck of land between the Delaware and the
Chesapeake on a railroad with one of Stephenson's engines....
The railroad was full of knots and dots, and jolting and jumping
and bumping and thumping places. The carriages we were in held
twelve people very uncomfortably. Baltimore itself, as far as I
have seen it, strikes me as a large, rambling, red-brick village on
the outskirts of one of our manufacturing towns, Birmingham or
Manchester. It covers an immense extent of ground, but there are
great gaps and vacancies in the middle of the streets, patches of
gravely ground, parcels of meadow land, and large vacant
spaces--which will all, no doubt, be covered with buildings in good
time, for it is growing daily and hourly--but which at present give
it an untidy, unfinished, straggling appearance.
While my father and I were exploring about together yesterday, we
came to a print-shop, whose window exhibited an engraving of
Reynolds's Mrs. Siddons as the Tragic Muse, and Lawrence's picture
of my uncle John in Hamlet. We stopped before them, and my father
looked with a good deal of emotion at these beautiful
representations of his beautiful kindred, and it was a sort of sad
surprise to meet them in this other world where we are wandering,
aliens and strangers.
This is the newest-looking place we have yet visited, the youngest
in appearance in this young world; and I have experienced to-day a
disagreeable instance of its immature civilization, or at any rate
its small proficiency in the elegancies of life. I wanted to ride,
but although a horse was to be found, no such thing as a
side-saddle could be procured at any livery-stable or saddler's in
the town, so I have been obliged to give up my projected exercise.
I have been to my first rehearsal here this morning, and wretched
enough all things were. I act for the first time to-morrow night
Bianca, which they have everywhere chosen for my opening part; and
it is a good one for that purpose, as I generally act and look well
in it, and it is the sort of play that all sorts of people can
comprehend. There is a foreign--I mean continental--custom here,
which is pleasant. They have a _table d'hote_ dinner at two
o'clock, and while it i
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