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range of hills above mentioned. Northward it stretches out on the level
sea shore, in a long double row of houses called the Almendral: towards
the south it rises in the direction of the hills. Two clefts or chasms
(quebradas) divide this part of the town into three separate parts
consisting of low, shabby houses. These three districts have been named
by the sailors after the English sea terms Fore-top, Main-top, and
Mizen-top. The numerous quebradas, which all intersect the ground in a
parallel direction, are surrounded by poor-looking houses. The wretched,
narrow streets running along these quebradas are, in winter, and
especially at night, exceedingly dangerous, Valparaiso being very badly
lighted. It sometimes happens that people fall over the edges of the
chasms and are killed, accidents which not unfrequently occur to the
drunken sailors who infest these quarters of the town.

Viewed from the sea, Valparaiso has rather a pleasing aspect, and some
neat detached houses built on little levels, artificially made on the
declivities of the hills, have a very picturesque appearance. The
scenery in the immediate background is gloomy; but, in the distance, the
summit of the volcano Aconcagua, which is 23,000 feet above the level of
the sea, and which, on fine evenings, is gilded by the rays of the
setting sun, imparts a peculiar charm to the landscape.

The bay is protected by three small forts. The southernmost, situated
between the lighthouse and the town, has five guns. The second, which is
somewhat larger, called el Castillo de San Antonio, is in the southern
inlet of the bay. Though the most strongly fortified of the three, it is
in reality a mere plaything. In the northern part of the town, on a
little hillock, stands the third fort, called el Castillo del Rosario,
which is furnished with six pieces of cannon. The churches of Valparaiso
are exceedingly plain and simple, undistinguished either for
architecture or internal decoration.

The custom-house is especially worthy of mention. It is a beautiful and
spacious building, and from its situation on the Muele (Mole) is an
object which attracts the attention of all who arrive at Valparaiso. In
the neighborhood of the custom-house is the exchange. It is a plain
building, and contains a large and elegant reading-room, in which may
always be found the principal European newspapers. In this reading-room
there is also an excellent telescope by Dollond, which is a source