evident that risings and sinkings have occurred at various
times, and that causes contingent on earthquakes have produced the
variations in the rising and falling of the coast.

It is probable that the accurate sounding of the depth of water in the
Camotal, at stated intervals, would furnish the best means of
ascertaining the rising and sinking of the coast. A variety of
circumstances combine to favor the practicability of calculation by this
method. For example, no river flows into that part of the bay in which
the Camotal is situated. The Rimac, whose mouth lies further to the
north, is not sufficiently large to carry any considerable deposit into
the bed of the bay: moreover, there is but little tide, and the bay is
always calm, being sheltered on the south by the island of San Lorenzo,
and north breezes are rare and never violent.

I may here mention a singular phenomenon which has in latter times often
occurred at Callao, and which, in 1841, I had myself the opportunity of
observing. About two in the morning the sea flowed from the shore with
greater force than in the strongest ebb; the ships farthest out were
left dry, which is never the case in an ebb tide. The alarm of the
inhabitants was great when the sea rushed instantly back with increased
force. Nothing could withstand its fury. Meanwhile there was no
commotion of the earth, nor any marked change of temperature.

In the earthquake of 1746 Callao was completely overwhelmed by the
sea. Several travellers have related that on calm days with a clear
sky the old town may be seen beneath the waves. I have also heard the
same story from inhabitants of Callao. It is doubtless a mere fable.
Under the most favorable circumstances I have often examined the
spot--the Mar brava, as it is called--without being able to discover a
trace of the ruins of old Callao.

The existing town of Callao is small, and by no means pleasant. In
winter it is damp and dirty, and in summer so dusty that in passing
through the streets one is almost choked. Most of the houses are very
slightly built, and they are usually only one story high. The walls are
constructed of reeds, plastered over with loam or red clay. All the
roofs are flat, being made of straw mats laid on a frame-work of reeds,
which is also plastered with loam on the under side. The windows are in
the roof, and consist of wooden trap-doors, which look very much like
bird-cages. They have no glass panes, but gratings made