has a very singular effect, and it is
long before the eye of a foreigner becomes reconciled to it. The
narrow saya is by no means graceful; the wide saya, on the other hand,
is very becoming, and sets off to great advantage a good figure and
elegant deportment. When I first arrived in Lima and saw the ladies
closely muffled up in their _mantos_, and carrying embroidered cambric
handkerchiefs and nosegays in their hands, it struck me that the nuns
enjoyed greater freedom in that country than in any other part of the
world. After vespers, that is to say half-past seven in the evening,
the police regulations prohibit any woman from appearing in the
streets dressed in the saya.

As this garment may be worn over a dress of the ordinary kind, it is
found to be very convenient, inasmuch as it saves the trouble of a
careful toilette. During short visits the ladies do not take off the
saya; but when making long visits they usually lay it aside.

The Saya y Manto are found to be very useful auxiliaries in the numerous
intrigues in which the Limenas frequently engage.

A _Tapada_[18] indulges in a vast deal of freedom when in the streets,
and scruples not to make satirical observations on anybody or anything
that strikes her as strange or ludicrous. The veil, or manto, is sacred,
and should a man attempt to remove it by force, he would run the risk of
being severely handled by the populace.

In intrigues of gallantry the Saya y Manto play a conspicuous part. A
lady has been known to arrange an assignation with a gentleman in the
street, whilst her husband, standing at the distance of a few yards
and conversing with a friend on some matter of business, has little
suspected that the _Tapada_ whose graceful figure he admired, was his
own faithful better-half. It frequently happens that Dona Mariquita
obliges Dona Merceditas, or Dona Panchita, with the loan of her saya,
for the purpose of hood-winking the Argus-eyes of a jealous
husband;--the lady being well convinced that her kind friends will
render her the like service in similar circumstances. Sometimes a
lady may be seen in an old tattered saya, such as scarcely the poorest
female might be expected to wear; but the costly shawl, the worked
pocket-handkerchief, the silk stockings, and satin shoes, betray the
rank of the _Tapada_, and plainly denote that she has sallied forth on
an adventure. It is difficult, nay almost impossible, to recognize a
lady thus muffled up. The one e