eather.
On the 29th of July, preparations were made on board our ship for
celebrating the Paris revolution of 1830. At eight o'clock in the
morning we fired three guns, and the Edmond was soon decorated from her
deck to her mast-heads with flags and streamers. At the fore-mast gaily
floated the Swiss flag, probably the first time it had ever been seen in
the Pacific. When the guns on board the French ship-of-war had ceased
firing, we began our salute; but, as we had only ten guns, it was
necessary to load a second time. Our seamen, being unused to this kind
of duty, did not observe due precaution, and the consequence was that
one of them had his hand so dreadfully shattered that immediate
amputation was indispensable. The day's rejoicing was thus suddenly
brought to a melancholy close.
The mole in front of the custom-house is exceedingly dangerous; so much
so, that, during the prevalence of stormy north winds, it is impossible
to pass along it. From the shore a sort of wooden jetty stretches into
the sea, at the distance of about sixty paces. This jetty has been
sometimes partially, and at other times completely, destroyed by the
waves. The harbor-master's boats, and those belonging to the
ships-of-war, land on the right side; the left side is allotted to the
boats of the merchant ships. On the shore there are always a number of
boats ready to convey persons who wish to go on board the different
ships. Each boat is generally rowed by two Indians. Whenever any person
approaches the shore he is beset by the boatmen, who throng round him,
and alternately, in English and Spanish, importune him with the
questions,--"Want a boat?" "Vamos a bordo?"
Day and night, parties of custom-house officers go round the port for
the purpose of preventing smuggling. In this, however, they only
partially succeed; for they detect only petty smugglers, whilst those
who carry on contraband trade on a large scale elude their vigilance.
The captains of French vessels are notorious for this kind of traffic,
and they frequently succeed in landing vast quantities of goods
surreptitiously.
The police of Valparaiso is probably as good as it is in any part of
South America. _Serenos_ (watchmen) perambulate the streets on foot and
on horseback, and continually give signals one to another by blowing
small whistles. For personal safety there is little risk, probably not
more than in the most populous cities of Europe. It is true that
nocturnal m
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