of
amusement, by affording a view of the comical scenes sometimes enacted
on board the ships in the port.

The taverns and hotels are very indifferent. The best are kept by
Frenchmen, though even those are incommodious and expensive. The
apartments, which scarcely contain necessary articles of furniture, are
dirty, and often infested with rats. In these houses, however, the table
is tolerably well provided; for there is no want of good meat and
vegetables in the market. The second-rate taverns are far beneath the
very worst in the towns of Europe.

On our arrival in Valparaiso, a vast deal of activity and bustle
prevailed in the harbor. Chile had declared war against the
Peru-Bolivian confederation, and was fitting out a new expedition for
the invasion of Peru. At its head were the banished Peruvian president
Don Augustin Gamarra, and the Chilian general Bulnes. The growing power
of Santa Cruz, who set himself up as protector of a confederation
between Bolivia and Peru, had given alarm to the Chilian government. It
was apprehended, and not without reason, that the independence of Chile
might be threatened by so dangerous a neighbor. Santa Cruz had given
umbrage to Chile by several decrees, especially one, by which merchant
vessels coming direct from Europe into a Bolivian or Peruvian port, and
there disposing of their cargoes, were subject to very low duties,
whilst heavy imposts were levied on ships landing any part of their
cargoes in a Chilian port. This law greatly increased the trade of Peru;
but it was prejudicial to Chile. This and other grounds of offence,
joined to the representations of the fugitive Ex-president Gamarra and
his adherents, determined the Chilian government to declare war. An
expedition under the command of General Blanco was sent to Peru; but
Santa Cruz was prepared to receive the invaders, and in the valley of
Arequipa he surrounded the Chilian forces so completely that they were
obliged to surrender without striking a blow. Santa Cruz magnanimously
allowed General Blanco to make a very favorable capitulation. The
soldiers were sent home to their country; but the horses were detained
and sold by the conquerors to the conquered.

The generosity of Don Andres Santa Cruz did not meet its due return on
the part of the Chilian government. The treaty of peace concluded by
Blanco was not ratified in Santiago, the minister declaring that the
general was not authorized to negotiate it. Hostilities