their feet are bound together,
and then they are rolled over planks into the _lancha_ (boat). On
nearing the ship, the Indians tie a rope round the animal's horns, and
then the sailors hoist him up with a strong tackle. It is a curious
sight to behold a strongly-bound struggling ox, hanging by the tackle,
and swinging between wind and water. My little Chilotean pony, which I
intended to take to Peru, was dealt with more gently: he was got on
board with a girth, purposely made for hoisting horses on board ship.

At length we sailed out of the bay with a fresh easterly wind. Three
coasting boats, one of which was heavily laden with brooms, left the
roads at the same time, and their crews said they hoped to reach
Valparaiso before us. But they had too great confidence in their
round-bottomed keels, for they did not anchor in their place of
destination till five or six days after our arrival. The wind soon got
up, blowing W.N.W., but rather flat. In the course of the night, during
the second watch, we were roused from our sleep by a heavy shock,
followed by a peculiarly tremulous motion of the whole ship. We
concluded we had struck in passing over some hidden rock. The lead was
thrown, but no ground was found; the pumps were set a-going, but we were
free of water. The captain attributed the shock to an earthquake, and on
our arrival at Chile, his conjecture was confirmed. In Valdivia, in the
latitude of which place we were at the time, a severe shock of an
earthquake had been experienced.

After a pretty favorable passage of seven days, we anchored on the 30th
of June in the harbor of Valparaiso.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 1: _Bombilla_ is the name given to this pipe, and the cup or
gourd in which the decoction of the _mate_ is prepared, is called the
_macerina_.]

CHAPTER II.

Valparaiso and the adjacent country--The Bay--Aspect of the
Town--Lighthouses--Forts--Custom House--Exchange--Hotels and
Taverns--War with the Peru-Bolivian Confederation--First
Expedition--Preparations for the Second Expedition--Embarkation
of the Troops--Close of the Port--July Festival in honor of the
French Revolution--The _Muele_, or Mole--Police--_Serenos_,
or Watchmen--Moveable Prisons--Clubs--Trade of
Valparaiso--Santiago--Zoology.

The impression produced by the approach to Valparaiso on persons who see
land for the first time after a sea voyage of several months' duration,
must be very different from that felt by those who anc