n each side of the road which
led down to it. The sight filled my veins with fresh life, and I
descended this side of the hill as merrily as I had come up the other
side despondingly. About half-way down the hill I came to a small
village. Seeing a public-house I went up to it, and inquired in English
of some people within the name of the village.

"Dolwen," said a dark-faced young fellow of about four-and-twenty.

"And what is the name of the valley?" said I.

"Dolwen," was the answer, "the valley is named after the village."

"You mean that the village is named after the valley," said I, "for
Dolwen means fair valley."

"It may be so," said the young fellow, "we don't know much here."

Then after a moment's pause he said:

"Are you going much farther?"

"Only as far as the 'Pump Saint.'"

"Have you any business there?" said he.

"No," I replied, "I am travelling the country, and shall only put up
there for the night."

"You had better stay here," said the young fellow. "You will be better
accommodated here than at the 'Pump Saint.'"

"Very likely," said I; "but I have resolved to go there, and when I once
make a resolution I never alter it."

Then bidding him good evening I departed. Had I formed no resolution at
all about stopping at the 'Pump Saint,' I certainly should not have
stayed in this house, which had all the appearance of a trampers'
hostelry, and though I am very fond of the conversation of trampers, who
are the only people from whom you can learn anything, I would much rather
have the benefit of it abroad than in their own lairs. A little farther
down I met a woman coming up the ascent. She was tolerably respectably
dressed, seemed about five-and-thirty, and was rather good-looking. She
walked somewhat slowly, which was probably more owing to a large bundle
which she bore in her hand than to her path being up-hill.

"Good evening," said I, stopping.

"Good evening, your honour," said she, stopping and brightly panting.

"Do you come from far?" said I.

"Not very far, your honour, but quite far enough for a poor feeble
woman."

"Are you Welsh?" said I.

"Och no! your honour; I am Mary Bane from Dunmanway in the kingdom of
Ireland."

"And what are you doing here?" said I.

"Och sure! I am travelling the country with soft goods."

"Are you going far?" said I.

"Merely to the village a little farther up, your honour."

"I am going farther," said I, "I am thinking of pas