?" said I.

"Yes, I do."

"If this were Sunday I would go to church," said I.

"Oh, if you wish to go to church you can go to-night. This is Wednesday,
and there will be service at half-past six. If you like I will come for
you."

"Pray do," said I; "I should like above all things to go."

Dinner over I sat before the fire occasionally dozing, occasionally
sipping a glass of whiskey-and-water. A little after six the old fellow
made his appearance with a kind of Spanish hat on his head. We set out;
the night was very dark; we went down a long street seemingly in the
direction of the west. "How many churches are there in Llandovery?" said
I to my companion.

"Only one, but you are not going to Llandovery Church, but to that of
Llanfair, in which our clergyman does duty once or twice a week."

"Is it far?" said I.

"Oh no; just out of the town, only a few steps farther."

We seemed to pass over a bridge and began to ascend a rising ground.
Several people were going in the same direction.

"There," said the old man, "follow with these, and a little farther up
you will come to the church, which stands on the right hand."

He then left me. I went with the rest and soon came to the church. I
went in and was at once conducted by an old man, who I believe was the
sexton, to a large pew close against the southern wall. The inside of
the church was dimly lighted; it was long and narrow, and the walls were
painted with a yellow colour. The pulpit stood against the northern wall
near the altar, and almost opposite to the pew in which I sat. After a
little time the service commenced; it was in Welsh. When the litanies
were concluded the clergyman, who appeared to be a middle-aged man, and
who had rather a fine voice, began to preach. His sermon was from the
119th Psalm: "Am hynny hoffais dy gorchymynion yn mwy nag aur:"
"Therefore have I loved thy commandments more than gold." The sermon,
which was extempore, was delivered with great earnestness, and I make no
doubt was a very excellent one, but owing to its being in South Welsh I
did not derive much benefit from it as I otherwise might have done. When
it was over a great many got up and went away. Observing, however, that
not a few remained, I determined upon remaining too. When everything was
quiet the clergyman, descending from the pulpit, repaired to the vestry,
and having taken off his gown went into a pew, and standing up began a
discourse, from whi