the desire of their makers to save on the materials. The most
beautiful form of the chasuble is undoubtedly the "Gothic" (see the
figure of Bishop Johannes of Lubeck in the article VESTMENTS), which is
the form most affected by the Anglican clergy, as being that worn in the
English Church before the Reformation.

_Decoration._--Though _planetae_ decorated with narrow orphreys are
occasionally met with in the monuments of the early centuries, these
vestments were until the 10th century generally quite plain, and even at
the close of this century, when the custom of decorating the chasuble
with orphreys had become common, there was no definite rule as to their
disposition; sometimes they were merely embroidered borders to the
neck-opening or hem, sometimes a vertical strip down the back, less
often a forked cross, the arms of which turned upwards over the
shoulders. From this time onward, however, the embroidery became ever
more and more elaborate, and with this tendency the orphreys were
broadened to allow of their being decorated with figures. About the
middle of the 13th century, the cross with horizontal arms begins to
appear on the back of the vestment, and by the 15th this had become the
most usual form, though the forked cross also survived--e.g. in England,
where it is now considered distinctive of the chasuble as worn in the
Anglican Church. Where the forked cross is used it is placed both on the
back and front of the vestment; the horizontal-armed cross, on the other
hand, is placed only on the back, the front being decorated with a
vertical strip extending to the lower hem (fig. 1, b, d). Sometimes
the back of the chasuble has no cross, but only a vertical orphrey, and
in this case the front, besides the vertical stripe, has a horizontal
orphrey just below the neck opening (see Plate I. fig. 2). This latter
is the type used in the local Roman Church, which has been adopted in
certain dioceses in South Germany and Switzerland, and of late years in
the Roman Catholic churches in England, e.g. Westminster cathedral (see
Plate I. figs. 3 and 5).

[Illustration PLATE I.

FIG. 2.--Chasuble of Pope Calixtus III. (15th century) preserved at
Valencia.

From a photograph by Father J.L. Braun in _Die liturg Gewandung_, by
permission of the publisher, B. Herder.

FIG. 3.--Chasuble of Pope Pius V. (late 15th century) at S. Maria
Maggiore at Rome.

From a photograph by Father J.L. Braun in _Die liturg G