nts in front of them. As very
little smoke or soot rises from the city the white buildings have not
become soiled and darkened but retain their freshness and purity of
color.

Many of the stores we visited were kept by Arabs who understood French
but could speak only a few words of English. The prices named by these
merchants were generally two or three times more than they expected
customers to pay, and it was very amusing to watch the process of a
sale. A price was named by the dealer; a bid was made by the customer;
then figuring, explaining, and dickering went on in a mixture of
languages and signs until finally, if the buyer's patience did not wear
out, the deal closed with a compromise. When the purchaser departed
happy with a bargain, the dealer also appeared well satisfied, and if
the same buyer returned to the store after once making a purchase, the
Arab merchant would recognize and welcome him with most gracious smiles
as if he were one of his warmest friends.

In these shops there was offered for sale such a varied and attractive
assortment of oriental wares, that by evening the tourists were laden
with packages. Handsome silk rugs, embroidered silk waists, curiously
carved Algerine weapons, brightly colored leather goods, articles of
hammered brass or copper, silver filagree work, ornaments of silver and
gold, trinkets of ivory, coral and pearl, fans, photographs, and picture
postal cards purchased during the day, were stored away in staterooms as
souvenirs of Algiers.

At the market stands were fruits and vegetables in abundance. The dates
offered were especially pleasing in appearance and quality. The bread
dealers, we noticed, sold bread by weight, and added or cut off chunks
and slices in order to give the exact weight wanted by customers.

The beggars did not trouble us very much by their importunities,
although they were to be seen everywhere in filth and rags. Street
peddlers, however, were persistent in offering wares and trinkets for
sale, and bright Arab boys, who had learned a few sentences of English
ran after us offering their services as guides.

The coffee shops which we saw while passing through the streets were as
numerous in Algiers as beer saloons in an American city. As the
Mohammedan religion forbids the use of alcoholic liquors, the Arab
followers of Mahomet appeared to be satisfying their craving for
stimulants by drinking strong black coffee and by drinking it often. In
the cafe