ids, staff in hand, guarding flocks of grazing sheep,
ancient swineherds lazily watching droves of swine feeding on the roots,
and goatherds following their nimble-footed brown herds as they picked
their way among the rocks.

As we approached our destination, the valleys showed signs of great
prosperity. The fields were highly cultivated; the farms were irrigated
by ditches of flowing water; the orchards were well trimmed; the
buildings larger; and the red-sashed laborers more sprucely attired.

[Illustration: MARVELOUSLY BEAUTIFUL IN MOORISH SPLENDOR.]

At Pinos we saw the stone bridge where, in 1492, Columbus, on his way to
France, disheartened by his failure to interest King Ferdinand in his
plans, was over-taken by Queen Isabella's messenger and summoned back to
court to receive his commission.

As twilight was settling down we arrived on schedule time at the white
stone station in Granada where carriages stood in waiting to convey us
to the hotels. The Spanish drivers strove to surpass each other in
speed. Our coachman lashed his horses till they ran like a run-away
team. Regardless of anyone in the streets, grazing wagons by the way,
overtaking and passing carriages ahead, he gave us the wildest ride we
had ever taken. This chariot race to the hotel, a distance of over a
mile, happily ended without accident or collision.

"Well, I'm thankful that ride is over without an upset," exclaimed with
a sigh of relief a nervous lady, who had tried ineffectually to restrain
the driver's zeal by the use of English words which he did not
understand.

The old Cathedral, covering ground equal to a block in length and half a
block in width, always attracts many visitors. Massive pillars support
the roof and marble tiles cover the floor. The light, falling softly
through stained glass windows, discloses valuable paintings on the
walls, fine statuary in the aisles, and decorations of white and gold.

"Is this building very old?" some one inquired.

"Old!" replied the guide with scorn in his voice, "this Cathedral was
here when Columbus discovered your country." The guide, however,
exaggerated somewhat. It was built just about the time America was
discovered.

[Illustration: HERE WASHINGTON IRVING LIVED FOR A TIME.]

In the Royal Chapel of the Cathedral, upon an alabaster mausoleum
decorated with fine carving, lie the effigies of Ferdinand and Isabella.
The soft, creamy alabaster gives them the appearance of sleeping. An