s of Granada and wept.

[Illustration: CHARMING VIEWS FROM BOUDOIR WINDOWS.]

Although the buildings of the Alhambra are partly in ruins, the view
from the Old Watch Tower has not changed materially. Standing on the
tiled roof to which we climbed by many well worn stone steps, we saw a
magnificent panorama spread out before us. The city lay almost at our
feet; beautiful valleys extended for many miles dotted with white
villages; gray olive orchards appeared here and there; verdant hills
rose in the distance; and, forty miles away, the snow-covered peaks of
the Sierra Nevada pierced the sky.

After leaving the tower, we drove to the Palace of the Generalife, which
is situated on the mountain side considerably higher than the Alhambra.
We approached this beautifully located residence, where Moorish kings
came to spend the summer months, by a wide path bordered with tall
cypress trees. In the Court of the Cypresses our Spanish guide pointed
to a venerable tree and said: "That cypress is six hundred years old;
under it the guilty lovers, the Queen and Hamet, had their meetings
until discovered by King Boabdil."

In the gardens of the Generalife, we rambled amid oddly trimmed trees,
climbing roses, immense rose bushes, fountains, and grottoes, and wished
that our stay might be prolonged. The terraces of the garden have
flights of marble steps leading from one level to another. One of the
flights we descended had runlets of water flowing down on the top of the
marble balustrades. Water, clear and sparkling, which is brought from a
mountain stream above, is abundant everywhere in fountains and pools,
and in streamlets along the pathways.

Among the sights of the city the milk delivery was interesting to
strangers. A number of long-haired brown goats having been driven to the
door of a house, a pitcher was brought and the milk drawn fresh from one
of the goats; or a cow was led along the street and the milk furnished
directly from the cow in any quantity desired by the customer.

Small donkeys with panniers were used instead of wagons for the transfer
of almost every kind of material in the city and country. Often the
burdens were so large that the donkey was almost lost from sight. We saw
these patient little animals driven through the streets variously laden
with sacks of charcoal, bundles of wood, baskets of vegetables, crates
of oranges, bags of coal, cans of water, kegs of wine, or bearing
hampers filled with buildin