watch marked the stated period a great explosion
occurred and a cloud of smoke, steam and dust was vomited out and
floated away slowly landwards. In the clear calm air it was a
magnificent spectacle and I never tired watching it. Another volcanic
peak had recently been absolutely shattered, one whole side as it were
blown off it. On arriving at San Jose, the port of Guatemala city, we
had a great reception, my friend being the owner of the railroad--the
only railroad in this State. A special train took us up to the capital,
splendidly-horsed carriages were put at our disposal, and we were
banqueted and entertained at the Opera, my friend insisting that I
should share in all this hospitality. The American minister joined our
party and made himself agreeable and useful. Guatemala city was once the
Paris of America, was rich, gay and prosperous; to-day it is--different,
but still very interesting. You are there in a bygone world, an age of
the past. Revolutions and inter-State wars have driven capital from the
country; progress is at a standstill; confidence in anybody does not
exist. As in the Central American States, "Ote toi de la que m'y mette"
is on the standard of every ambitious general, colonel or politician. It
is the direct cause of all the revolutions. At Corinto a lady, whom we
became intimate with, landed for the professed purpose of "revoluting."
Yet the country is a naturally rich one, having on the highlands a
splendid temperate climate, and everywhere great mineral and
agricultural resources. We were fortunate to see a parade of some of the
State troops; and such a comical picture of military imbecility and
inefficiency could surely not be found elsewhere. The officers swaggered
in the gayest of uniforms; the men were shoeless, dirty and slovenly. On
approaching the city one passes near by the famous volcanoes Fuego,
Aqua and Picaya (14,000 feet), and mysterious Lake Anatitlan.

A shooting-trip had been arranged for us: a steam launch on the lake,
Indians as carriers, mules, etc. etc., but my friend declined for want
of time. Among the fauna of the country are common and black jaguars,
tapirs, manatees, peccaries, boas, cougars or pumas, and alligators.
Also the quetzal, the imperial bird of the great Indian Quiche race, and
the Trogan resplendens. Poinciana regia and P. pulcherrima are common
garden shrubs or trees, but the finest Poinciana I ever saw was in
Honolulu. Vampire bats are more common in Nicar