e
splendid in gold braid, feathers and gaudy uniforms. Around the town
were circular block-houses, beyond which even then no one was allowed to
go. Indeed, mounted tribesmen could be seen sometimes riding up to the
line and flourishing their guns in apparent defiance. Curiosity made me
venture forward till warned back by the guard. These Riffians were
certainly picturesque-looking rascals. Mellilla was then not on the
tourist's track, so was all the more interesting and novel.

From there by steamer to Gibraltar, stopping at Ceuta on the way. At
Gibraltar a friend, Capt. B----, took me all over the rock, the
galleries, and certain fortifications. A meeting of hounds near
Algeciras was attended. Thence by train to Granada to visit the
marvellously lovely Alhambra, and of course to meet the King of the
Gipsies; Ronda, romantic and picturesque; Cordova and its immense
mosque and old Roman bridge; and so on to Madrid by a most comfortable
and fast train; but the temperature all through Central Spain is
extremely cold in winter. The country is inhospitable-looking, and the
natives seem to have abandoned their picturesque national dress. One
must now go to Mexico to see the cavalier in his gay and handsome
costume. In Madrid I of course visited the splendid Armoury; also the
National Art Gallery with its Velasquezs and Murillos. From Madrid to
San Sebastian, the season not yet begun, and Biarritz. Here I spent a
most enjoyable month: dry, bracing climate, good golf-course, good
hotels, etc. It was the English season; the Spanish season being in
summer. On King Edward's arrival with his entourage and fashionable
followers golf became impossible, so I went on to Pau and played there.
From Pau a short run took me to Lourdes, with its grotto, chapel, etc.
From Pau to Bordeaux, a handsome, busy town. Then Paris and home.

CHAPTER XII

THIRD TOUR ABROAD

Salt Lake City--Canada--Vancouver--Hawaii--Fiji--Australia--New
Zealand--Tasmania--Summer at Home.

The fall of 1908 saw me off on a tour which finally took me round the
world. Space will only permit of its itinerary and a few of my
impressions and experiences. From Amarillo I trained north to Salt Lake
City, passing through the wonderful gorge of the Arkansas River and the
canon of the Grand; scenery extremely wild and impressive. At Salt Lake
found a large, busy, up-to-date city. Visited the tabernacle, and heard
the great organ, the largest in the world;