Janolan. Wild wallabies were plentiful round about, and the "laughing
jackass" first made himself known to me.
February 2nd.--S---- and myself took passage to New Zealand, the
fish-story man being again a fellow-traveller. During the crossing
numerous albatrosses were seen. In New Zealand we visited all the great
towns, Wellington, Auckland, Christchurch, Dunedin and others, all of
them pleasant, agreeable places, Christchurch being especially
attractive. What a grand, healthy, well-fed and physically fit-looking
people the New Zealanders are. Scotch blood predominates, and really
there is a great similarity between the two peoples. At Rotorua we met
the Premier and other celebrities, S---- being very interested in
Colonial politics. Rotorua is a very charming place; I did some fishing
in the lake, where trout were so numerous that it was not much sport
catching them. Illness unfortunately prevented my going further afield
and fishing for larger trout in the rivers. A Colonel M---- and sister
who were in New Zealand at that time claimed to have beaten the record,
their catch averaging over 20 lbs. per fish (rainbows), as they told me
on again meeting them in the Hebrides. We did the Wanganui River of
course; and the geysers at Whakarewarewa, under the charge of Maggie,
the Maori guide.
As you no doubt are aware, the Maori fashion of salutation is to rub
noses together. As long as they are pretty noses there cannot be much
objection; but some of the Maori girls are themselves so pretty that
mere rubbing is apt to degenerate and one's nose is liable to slip out
of place. Maggie, the Maori guide, a very pretty woman and now at
Shepherd's Bush, can tell all about it and even give a demonstration.
Here in Whakarewarewa one is impressed with the fact that this little
settlement is built on what is a mere shallow crust, under which, at the
depth of only a few feet, is a vast region of boiling mud and water.
Everywhere around are bubbling and spluttering mud-wells, some in the
form of miniature geysers; steam is issuing everywhere from clefts and
crannies in the ground; and one almost expects a general upheaval or
sinking of the whole surface. The principal geyser was not and had not
been for some weeks in action. It can be forced into action, however, by
the singular method of dropping a bar of soap down the orifice, when a
tremendous rush of steam and water is vomited out with terrific force.
Sir Joseph Ward, the Premie
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