my hotel, I had an opportunity of seeing Japanese men
and women in full-dress attire, and to notice the extreme formalities of
their greetings. A Japanese gentleman bows once, then again, and, as if
he had forgotten something, after a short interval a third time. From
Tokio I went to Kioto, formerly the residence of the Mikado, now purely
a native city, with no modern buildings and still narrower streets; but
it is the centre of the cloisonne, damascening and embroidery
industries. Hotels in Japan are everywhere quite good. Here I visited
the fencing and jiu-jitsu schools, which are attended by a large number
of pupils, women as well as men. Also the geisha school, and saw girls
taught dancing, music and tea ceremony. What perfectly delightful and
charming little ladies Japanese girls of apparently all classes are. The
smile of the geisha girl may be professional, but is very seductive and
penetrating; so that the mere European man is soon a willing worshipper.
The plump little waitresses in hotels and tea-houses, charmingly
costumed, smiling as only they can smile, are incomparable. The
Japanese, too, are the cleanest of all nations; the Chinese and Koreans
among the dirtiest. They are extremely courteous as well as polite. A
drunken man is hardly ever seen in Japan, a woman never. An angry word
is hardly ever heard; indeed, the language has no "swear" words. All the
people are artistic, even aesthetic. Arthur Diosy in his book declares
that the Japanese are the most cheerful, peaceable, law-abiding and
kindliest of all peoples. Up till the "Great Change," 1871, trade was
considered unsuitable for, and degrading to, a gentleman. Women here,
by-the-by, shave or have shaven the whole face, including the nose and
ears, though not the eyebrows. How these Japs worship the beauties of
Nature! Few of us might see much beauty in a purple cabbage; yet in my
hotel purple cabbages were put in prominent places to decorate the
dining-hall, and were really quite effective.

From Kioto I went to Nara, once the capital of the Empire, a pretty
place with large park and interesting museum. A great religious festival
was on, including a procession of men in ancient armour and costumes.
There was also some horse-racing, which was quite comical. Apparently no
European but myself was present. On travelling to Nara I passed through
the tea district of Oji. The gardens are very beautiful and carefully
tended. It was a great treat to me this f