t is this! Oh, it is this! Oh, it is this!" In the city itself is
the famous street called Chandni Chauk. North of the city is a district
where the principal incidents of the siege took place, and there also is
the plain devoted to imperial durbars and assemblages. South of the city
are many celebrated tombs, such as those of Emperor Humayun, and of
Tughlak; and the majestic Kutab Minar. Mutiny recollections of course
enormously add to one's interest in Delhi, and many days may be
agreeably passed in company with her other historic, tragic and romantic
associations. At the time of my visit preparations were already
beginning for the great Coronation Durbar to be held next winter. Most
hotels and private houses have already been leased. What the general
public will do for accommodation I do not know. One will almost
necessarily, like the King, have to go under canvas. The Circuit House
will only be used by His Majesty should bad weather prevail. The native
rulers of every grade are going to make such a display of Oriental
magnificence as was never seen before. To many it will be their ruin, or
at least a serious crippling of their resources; but it is a chance for
display that does not often occur and they seem determined to make the
most of it.

Here at Delhi the General and myself again joined forces, he and his
wife having visited Lucknow and Cawnpore. We took train direct to
Peshawar, via Rawal Pindi and Lahore. I never knew anyone who enjoyed
foreign travel so much as my American friend. He was in a constant state
of delight, finding interest and pleasure in small matters that never
even attracted my attention, though as a rule my faculty for observation
is by no means obtuse. In Burmah the bright-hued cupras of the natives
filled him with intense joy, and the presence of some closely-screened
native ladies on a ferryboat so held his gaze that his wife (and I
suspect they were not long married) must have felt pangs of jealousy.
But he was a keen soldier, and had frequently represented his country at
the German and other manoeuvres, and had been Adjutant-General at the
inauguration of President Roosevelt, a very honourable position indeed.
So he was intensely interested in old forts and battlefields, and his
enthusiasm while in Peshawar and the Khaiber Pass was boundless. More
than that he was a strong Anglo-Phile, and amused me by his disparaging
criticism on how his own Government did things in the Philippines and