hich
it is customary to put only two passengers, at least during sleeping
hours, and unless an unusual crowd requires otherwise.

It was also on this train I made the acquaintance of a gentleman on his
way to visit the Maharaja of Gwalior, and who was kind enough to ask me
to accompany him. I told him that if he would secure me an invitation
from the Maharaja I would be only too pleased to do so. Gwalior was a
place on my itinerary anyway; to go there as a guest would secure me
many advantages not attainable by the ordinary tourist. My friend said
he would see the Maharaja at once and have my visit arranged for. A few
days afterwards I received advice that it had been done, so on arrival
at Gwalior I was met by one of the State carriages and conveyed to the
Guest House, formerly the zenana, close to the palace, a very beautiful
and handsome building, where an excellent staff of servants, capital
meals, choice liquors and cigars, were at our free disposal. His
Highness does not eat with his guests, but they are all put up in this
building; and during big shoots, durbars, or festive occasions, the
house is always full. At the time of my visit the few guests included
two Scotch manufacturers, who had just effected large sales of machinery
to the Maharaja, the one securing from him an order worth L60,000 for
steam-breaking ploughs, the other an order of some L20,000 for pumping
appliances. The Maharaja is a thoroughly progressive man, has an
enormous revenue, and devotes a large part of it to the bringing into
cultivation tracts of hitherto unbroken and unoccupied land, which no
doubt will eventually increase his revenue and provide homesteads for
his people. Sindia, as his name is, is a keen soldier, a keen sportsman,
and most loyal to the British Raj. He moves about freely, wearing a
rough tweed suit, is busy and occupied all day long, and though he has
ministers and officials of all degrees, and keeps great state on
occasion, his army numbering some 5000 men, he finds time to superintend
the various departments of his Government, and to administer his State
with a thoroughness uncommon among Indian potentates. The new palace is
very beautiful and furnished in European manner, apparently quite
regardless of expense. The crystal chandeliers in the reception-rooms
are magnificent, and must alone represent fabulous sums. Near by the
palace are a number of lions, now kept in proper cages, but I must say
from the smell and fil