says
Knapp, except an imperfect outline of the journey, showing that he was at
Oban, Tobermory, the Mull of Cantire, Glasgow, Perth, Aberdeen,
Inverness, Dingwall, Tain, Dornoch, Helmsdale, Wick, John o'Groats,
Thurso, Stromness, Kirkwall, and Lerwick.
In 1860, after taking a house at 20, Hereford Square, West Brompton, he
and his wife and stepdaughter went to Dublin, and himself walked to
Connemara and the Giant's Causeway. His wife thought this journey "full
of adventure and interest," but he left no record of it. They were again
in Ireland in 1866, Miss Clarke having lately married a Dr. MacOubrey, of
Belfast. Borrow himself crossed over to Stranraer and had a month's
walking in Scotland, to Glen Luce, Castle Douglas, Dumfries, Ecclefechan,
Carlisle, Gilnochie, Hawick, Jedburgh, Yetholm, Kelso, Melrose,
Coldstream, Berwick, and Edinburgh. He talked to the people, admired the
scenery, bathed, and enjoyed his meals. He left the briefest of
journals, but afterwards, in "Romano Lavo-Lil," published an account of
the "Gypsy toon" of Kirk Yetholm and how he was introduced to the Gypsy
Queen. He dropped his umbrella and flung his arms three times up into
the air and asked her in Romany what her name was, and if she was a
mumper or a true Gypsy. She asked him what was the meaning of this
"gibberish," but he describes how gradually he made her declare herself,
and how she examined him in Gypsy and at last offered him a chair, and
entered into "deep discourse" about Gypsy matters. He talked as he did
to such people, saying "Whoy, I calls that a juggal," etc. He found
fault with her Romany, which was thin and mixed with Gaelic and cant
words. She told him that he reminded her of her grandfather, Will Faa,
"being a tall, lusty man like himself, and having a skellying look with
the left eye, just like him." He displayed his knowledge of the affairs
of the tribe, both in her country and in England. She told him that she
had never heard so much Romany before. She promised to receive him next
day, but was out when he called. He found her at St. George's Fair, near
Roxburgh Castle, and she pointed him out several other Gypsies, but as
she assured him they knew not a word of Romany and would only be uncivil
to him, he left them to "pay his respects at the tomb of Walter Scott, a
man with whose principles he had no sympathy, but for whose genius he had
always entertained the most intense admiration."
In 1868 he took an
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