ardly look for a heretical face under the green veil of a
_Shereefateh_ of Abu-l-Hajjaj. The Hajjees (pilgrims) have just started
from here to Cosseir with camels and donkeys, but most are on foot. They
are in great numbers this year. The women chanted and drummed all night
on the river bank, and it was fine to see fifty or sixty men in a line
praying after their Imam with the red glow of the sunset behind them.
The prayer in common is quite a drill and very stately to see. There are
always quite as many women as men; one wonders how they stand the march
and the hardships.

My little Achmet grows more pressing with me to take him. I will take
him to Alexandria, I think, and leave him in Janet's house to learn more
house service. He is a dear little boy and very useful. I don't suppose
his brother will object and he has no parents. Achmet ibn-Mustapha also
coaxes me to take him with me to Alexandria, and to try again to persuade
his father to send him to England to Mr. Fowler. I wish most heartily I
could. He is an uncommon child in every way, full of ardour to learn and
do something, and yet childish and winning and full of fun. His pretty
brown face is quite a pleasure to me. His remarks on the New Testament
teach me as many things as I can teach him. The boy is pious and not at
all ill taught, he is much pleased to find so little difference between
the teaching of the Koran and the _Aangeel_. He wanted me, in case Omar
did not go with me, to take him to serve me. Here there is no idea of
its being derogatory for a gentleman's son to wait on one who teaches
him, it is positively incumbent. He does all 'menial offices' for his
mother, hands coffee, waits at table or helps Omar in anything if I have
company, nor will he eat or smoke before me, or sit till I tell him--it
is like service in the middle ages.

April 3, 1865: Mrs. Ross

_To Mrs. Ross_.

LUXOR,
_April_ 3, 1865.

DEAREST JANET,

The weather has set in so horrid, as to dust, that I shall be glad to get
away as soon as I can. If you have bought a dahabieh for me of course I
will await its arrival. If not I will have two small boats from Keneh,
whereby I shall avoid sticking in this very low water. Sheykh Hassan
goes down in his boat in twenty days and urges me to travel under his