lay the
symbol of the Creator of all things. All is thus here--the women wail
the dead, as on the old sculptures, all the ceremonies are pagan, and
would shock an Indian Mussulman as much as his objection to eat with a
Christian shocks an Arab. This country is a palimpsest, in which the
Bible is written over Herodotus, and the Koran over that. In the towns
the Koran is most visible, in the country Herodotus. I fancy it is most
marked and most curious among the Copts, whose churches are shaped like
the ancient temples, but they are so much less accessible than the Arabs
that I know less of their customs.

Now I have filled such a long letter I hardly know if it is worth
sending, and whether you will be amused by my commonplaces of Eastern
life. I kill a sheep next Friday, and Omar will cook a stupendous dish
for the poor Fellaheen who are lying about the railway-station, waiting
to be taken to work somewhere. That is to be my Bairam, and Omar hopes
for great benefit for me from the process.

May 25, 1863: Sir Alexander Duff Gordon

_To Sir Alexander Duff Gordon_.

CAIRO,
_May_ 25, 1863.

DEAREST ALICK,

I have spun such a yarn to my mother that I shall make it serve for both.
It may amuse you to see what impression Cairo makes. I ride along on my
valiant donkey led by the stalwart Hassan and attended by Omar, and
constantly say, 'Oh, if our master were here, how pleased he would
be'--husband is not a correct word.

I went out to the tombs yesterday. Fancy that Omar witnessed the
destruction of some sixty-eight or so of the most exquisite
buildings--the tombs and mosques of the Arab Khaleefehs, which Said Pasha
used to divert himself with bombarding for practice for his artillery.
Omar was then in the boy corps of camel artillery, now disbanded. Thus
the Pasha added the piquancy of sacrilege to barbarity.

The street and the neighbours would divert you. Opposite lives a
Christian dyer who must be a seventh brother of the admirable barber.
The same impertinence, loquacity, and love of meddling in everybody's
business. I long to see him thrashed, though he is a constant comedy.
My delightful servant, Omar Abou-el-Hallaweh (the father of sweets)--his
family are pastrycooks--is the type of all the amiable _jeune premiers_
of the stories. I am privately o