advances I must drop down and return to Cairo, or try Suez,
which I hear is excellent in summer--bracing desert air. But it is very
tempting to stay here--a splendid cool house, food extremely cheap; about
1 pounds a week for three of us for fish, bread, butter, meat, milk, eggs
and vegetables; all grocery, of course, I brought with me; no trouble,
rest and civil neighbours. I feel very disinclined to move unless I am
baked out, and it takes a good deal to bake me. The only fear is the
Khamaseen wind. I do not feel very well. I don't ail anything in
particular; blood-spitting frequent, but very slight; much less cough;
but I am so weak and good for nothing. I seldom feel able to go out or
do more than sit in the balcony on one side or other of the house. I
have no donkey here, the hired ones are so very bad and so dear; but I
have written Mounier to try and get me one at El-Moutaneh and send it
down in one of Halim Pasha's corn-boats. There is no comfort like a
donkey always ready. If I have to send for Mustapha's horse, I feel lazy
and fancy it is too much trouble unless I can go just when I want.

I have received a letter from Alexandria of January 8. What dreadful
weather! We felt the ghost of it here in our three weeks of cold.
Sometimes I feel as if I must go back to you all _coute qui coute_, but I
know it would be no use to try it in the summer. I long for more news of
you and my chicks.

February 8, 1864: February 8, 1864

_To Mrs. Ross_.

LUXOR,
_Tuesday_, _February_ 8, 1864.

DEAREST CHILD,

I got your letter No. 3 about a week ago, and two others before it. I
have been very lazy in writing, for it has been very cold (for Thebes),
and I have been very seedy--no severe attack, but no strength at all.
The last three or four days the weather has been warm, and I am beginning
to feel better. I send this to Cairo by a clever, pleasant Mme. de
Beaulaincourt, a daughter of Marechal Castellane, who is here in one of
the Pasha's steamers. She will call on you when she goes to Alexandria.
I have been learning to write Arabic, and know my letters--no trifle, I
assure you. My Sheykh is a perfect darling--the most graceful, high-bred
young creature, and a Seyyid. These Saeedees are much nicer than the
Lower Egypt people. They have good Arab blood in their