ere very curious, and I think I was more struck with the beauty of
the drawing of the figures than last year. The face of the Goddess of
the Western shore, Amenti, Athor, or Hecate, is ravishing as she welcomes
the King to her regions; death was never painted so lovely. The road is
a long and most wild one--truly through the valley of the shadow of
death--not an insect nor a bird. Our moonlight ride home was beyond
belief beautiful. The Arabs who followed us were immensely amused at
hearing me interpret between German and English, and at my speaking
Arabic; they asked if I was dragoman of all the languages in the world.
One of them had droll theories about 'Amellica' (America), as they
pronounce it always. Was the King very powerful that the country was
called '_Al Melekeh_' (the Kings)? I said, 'No: all are Kings there: you
would be a King like the rest.' My friend disapproved utterly: 'If all
are Kings they must all be taking away every man the other's money'--a
delightful idea of the kingly vocation.

When we landed on the opposite shore, I told little Achmet to go back in
the ferry-boat, in which he had brought me over my donkey; a quarter of
an hour after I saw him by my side. The guide asked why he had not gone
as I told him. 'Who would take care of the lady?' the monkey is Rainie's
size. Of course he got tired, and on the way home I told him to jump up
behind me _en croupe_ after the Fellah fashion. I thought the Arabs
would never have done laughing and saying _Wallah_ and _Mashallah_.
Sheykh Yussuf talked about the excavations, and is shocked at the way the
mummies are kicked about. One boy told him they were not Muslims as an
excuse, and he rebuked him severely, and told him it was _haraam_
(accursed) to do so to the children of Adam. He says they have learned
it very much of Mariette Bey, but I suspect it was always so with the
fellaheen. To-day a tremendous wind is blowing; excellent for the corn.
At Mustapha's farm they are preparing for the harvest, baking bread and
selecting a young bull to be killed for the reapers. It is not hot
to-day; only 84 degrees in a cool room. The dust is horrid with this
high wind; everything is gritty, and it obscures the sun. I am desired
to eat a raw onion every day during the Khamseen for health and
prosperity. This too must be a remnant of ancient Egypt. How I do long
to see you and the children. Sometimes I feel rather down-hearted, but
it is no good to