real_ difference consists in all the class of
notions and feelings (very important ones, no doubt) which we derive--not
from the Gospels at all--but from Greece and Rome, and which of course
are altogether wanting here.

Alick will tell you how curiously Omar illustrated the patriarchal
feelings of the East by entirely dethroning me in favour of the 'Master.'
'That _our Master_, we all eat bread from his hand, and he work for
_us_.' Omar and I were equal before _our Seedee_. He can sit at his
ease at my feet, but when the Master comes in he must stand reverently,
and gave me to understand that I too must be respectful.

I have got the boat of the American Mission at an outrageous price, 60
pounds, but I could get nothing under; the consolation is that the
sailors profit, poor fellows, and get treble wages. My crew are all
Nubians. Such a handsome reis and steersman--brothers--and there is a
black boy, of fourteen or so, with legs and feet so sweetly beautiful as
to be quite touching--at least I always feel those lovely round young
innocent forms to be somehow affecting. Our old boat of last summer
(Arthur Taylor's) is sailing in company with us, and stately old reis
Mubharak hails me every morning with the Blessing of God and the Peace of
the Prophet. Alee Kuptan, my steamboat captain will announce our advent
at Thebes; he passed us to-day. This boat is a fine sailer, but iron
built and therefore noisy, and not convenient. The crew encourage her
with 'Get along, father of three,' because she has three sails, whereas
two is the usual number. They are active good-humoured fellows--my
men--but lack the Arab courtesy and _simpatico_ ways, and then I don't
understand their language which is pretty and sounds a little like
Caffre, rather bird-like and sing-song, instead of the clattering
guttural Arabic. I now speak pretty tolerably for a stranger, _i.e._ I
can keep up a conversation, and understand all that is said to me much
better than I can speak, and follow about half what people say to each
other. When I see you, _Inshallah_, next summer I shall be a good
scholar, I hope.

January 2, 1865: Mrs. Austin

_To Mrs. Austin_.

LUXOR,
_January_ 2, 1865.

DEAREST MUTTER,

I posted a letter for you at Girgeh, as we passed Siout with a good wind,
I hope yo