nd that is all--and when he comes up
little Achmet, who is his uncle, 'makes him fit to be seen' by emptying a
pitcher of water over his head to rinse off the dust in which of course
he has been rolling--that is equivalent to a clean pinafore. You would
want to buy little Said I know, he is so pretty and so jolly. He dances
and sings and jabbers baby Arabic and then sits like a quaint little idol
cross-legged quite still for hours.

I am now writing in the kitchen, which is the coolest place where there
is any light at all. Omar is diligently spelling words of six letters,
with the wooden spoon in his hand and a cigarette in his mouth, and Sally
is lying on her back on the floor. I won't describe our costume. It is
now two months since I have worn stockings, and I think you would wonder
at the fellaha who 'owns you,' so deep a brown are my face, hands and
feet. One of the sailors in Arthur's boat said: 'See how the sun of the
Arabs loves her; he has kissed her so hotly that she can't go home among
English people.'

_June_ 18.--I went last night to look at Karnac by moonlight. The giant
columns were overpowering. I never saw anything so solemn. On our way
back we met the Sheykh-el-Beled, who ordered me an escort of ten men
home. Fancy me on my humble donkey, guarded most superfluously by ten
tall fellows, with oh! such spears and venerable matchlocks. At
Mustapha's house we found a party seated before the door, and joined it.
There was a tremendous Sheykh-el-Islam from Tunis, a Maghribee, seated on
a carpet in state receiving homage. I don't think he liked the heretical
woman at all. Even the Maohn did not dare to be as 'politeful' as usual
to me, but took the seat above me, which I had respectfully left vacant
next to the holy man. Mustapha was in a stew, afraid not to do the
respectful to me, and fussing after the Sheykh. Then Yussuf came fresh
from the river, where he had bathed and prayed, and then you saw the real
gentleman. He salaamed the great Sheykh, who motioned to him to sit
before him, but Yussuf quietly came round and sat _below_ me on the mat,
leaned his elbow on my cushion, and made more demonstration of regard for
me than ever, and when I went came and helped me on my donkey. The holy
Sheykh went away to pray, and Mustapha hinted to Yussuf to go with him,
but he only smiled, and did not stir; he had prayed an hour before down
at the Nile. It was as if a poor curate had devoted himself to