were of later
date, not occurring until the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries.
Baudekin, a good silk and golden weave, was very popular.

Cut velvets with elaborate patterns were made in Genoa. The process
consisted in leaving the main ground in the original fine rib which
resulted from weaving, while in the pattern these little ribs were
split open, making that part of a different ply from the rest of
the material, in fact, being the finished velvet as we now know
it, while the ground remained uncut, and had more the appearance
of silk reps. Velvet is first mentioned in England in 1295, but
probably existed earlier on the Continent.

Both Roger de Wendover and Matthew Paris mention a stuff called
"imperial:" it was partly gold in weave, but there is some doubt
as to its actual texture.

Baudekin was a very costly textile of gold and silk which was used
largely in altar coverings and hangings, such as dossals; by degrees
the name became synonymous with "baldichin," and in Italy the whole
altar canopy is still called a _baldachino_.

During Royal Progresses the streets were always hung with rich cloth
of gold. As Chaucer makes allusion to streets

"By ordinance throughout the city large
Hanged with cloth of gold, and not with serge,"

so Leland tells how the Queen of Henry VII. was conducted to her
coronation and "all the stretes through which she should pass were
clenely dressed... with cloths of tapestry and Arras, and some
stretes, as Cheepe, hanged with rich cloths of gold, velvetts,
and silks." And in Machyn's Diary, he says that "as late as 1555
at Bow church in London, was hangyd with cloth of gold and with
rich Arras."

The word "satin" is derived from the silks of the Mediterranean,
called "aceytuni," which became "zetani" in Italian, and gradually
changed through French and English influence, to "satin." The first
mention of it in England is about 1350, when Bishop Grandison made
a gift of choice satins to Exeter Cathedral.

The Dalmatic of Charlemagne is embroidered on blue satin, although
this is a rare early example of the material. At Constantinople,
also, as early as 1204, Baldwin II. wore satin at his coronation.
It was nearly always made in a fiery red in the early days. It
is mentioned in a Welsh poem of the thirteenth century.

Benjamin of Tudela, a traveller who wrote in 1161, mentions that
the Jews were living in great numbers in Thebes, and that they
made silks there at that time