urial the same thing was repeated, in 1557. Finally
these rich shimmering hangings came to be known in England as "cloth
of pall," whether they were used for funerals or coronations, for
bridals or pageants.

The London City Guilds possessed magnificent palls; especially
well known is that of the Fishmongers, with its kneeling angels
swinging censers; this pall is frequently reproduced in works on
embroidery. It is embroidered magnificently with angels, saints,
and strange to say, mermaids. The peacock's wings of the angels
make a most decorative feature in this famous piece of old
embroidery. The Arms of the Company are also emblazoned.

French embroiderers are known by name in many instances; in 1299
allusion was made to "Clement le Brodeur," who furnished a cope for
the Count of Artois, and in 1316 a magnificent set of hangings was
made for the Queen, by one Gautier de Poulleigny. Nicolas Waquier was
armourer and embroiderer to King John in 1352. Among Court workers in
1384 were Perrin Gale, and Henriet Gautier. In the "Book of Rules"
by Etienne Boileau, governing the "Embroiderers and embroideresses
of the City of Paris," one of the chief laws was that no work should
be permitted in the evening, "because the work of the night cannot
be so good or so satisfactory as that accomplished in the day."
When one remembers the facilities for evening lighting in the middle
ages, one fully appreciates the truth of this statement.

Matthew Paris, in his Life of St. Alban, tells of an excellent
embroideress, Christine, Prioress of Margate, who lived in the
middle of the twelfth century. In the thirteenth century several
names occur. Adam de Bazinge made, in 1241, by order of Henry III.
of England, a cope for the Bishop of Hereford. Cunegonde, Abbess
of Goss, in Styria, accomplished numerous important works in that
period. Also, Henry III. employed Jean de Sumercote to make jewelled
robes of state.

On a certain thirteenth century chasuble are the words
"Penne fit me" (Penne made me), pointing to the existence of a
needleworker of that name. Among the names of the fourteenth century
are those of Gautier de Bruceles, Renier de Treit, Gautier de Poulogne,
and Jean de Laon, while Jean Harent of Calais is recorded as having
worked, for Mme. d'Artois, in 1319, a robe decorated "a bestelettes
et a testes." These names prove that the art had been taught in
many cities and countries: Ogier de Gant, Jean de Savoie, Etienne
le Hongre