l was of a loose
weave, it was executed by means of a little hook--the probable
origin of crochet.

Tapestry stitch, of which one branch is cross-stitch, was formed by
laying close single stitches of uniform size upon a canvas specially
prepared for this work.

[Illustration: EMBROIDERY ON CANVAS, 16TH CENTURY, SOUTH KENSINGTON
MUSEUM]

Fine embroidery in silk was usually executed in long smooth stitches
of irregular length, which merged into each other. This is generally
known as satin stitch, for the surface of the work is that of a satin
texture when the work is completed. This was frequently executed
upon linen, and then, when the entire surface had been hidden by the
close silk stitches, it was cut out and transferred on a brocade
background, this style of rendering being known as applique. Botticelli
recommended this work as most durable and satisfactory: it is oftenest
associated with church embroidery. A simple applique was also done
by cutting out pieces of one material and applying them to another,
hiding the edge-joinings by couching on a cord. As an improvement
upon painted banners to be used in processions, Botticelli introduced
this method of cutting out and resetting colours upon a different
ground. As Vasari says: "This he did that the colors might not
sink through, showing the tint of the cloth on each side." But
Dr. Rock points out that it is hardly fair to earlier artificers
to give the entire credit for this method of work to Botticelli,
since such cut work or applique was practised in Italy a hundred
years before Botticelli was born!

Sometimes solid masses of silk or gold thread were laid in ordered
flatness upon a material, and then sewn to it by long or short
stitches at right angles. This is known as couching, and is a very
effective way of economizing material by displaying it all on the
surface. As a rule, however, the surface wears off somewhat, but
it is possible to execute it so that it is as durable as embroidery
which has been rendered in separate stitches.

In Sicily it was a common practice to use coral in embroideries
as well as pearls. Coral work is usually called Sicilian work,
though it was also sometimes executed in Spain.

The garments worn by the Byzantines were very ornate; they were
made of woven silk and covered with elaborate devices. In the fourth
century the Bishop of Amasia ridiculed the extravagant dress of his
contemporaries. "When men appear in the streets thus