ed by blue lights,
continued by an opposite fortification, until they were noticed at the
station on Signal Hill behind the city. Onward we sped, through a fleet
of vessels, our craft threading her way, "like a thing of life," obeying
the master's steady commands, creating no little sensation, as she
darted amongst them, inclining to the right or left, or pressing boldly,
straight ahead, to the repeated orders of "starboard," "port," or
"steady there, so," and causing the different craft to run up their
signal lights quite hastily. "Stand by," "let go the anchor," and there
she lay as if taking rest after a long journey.
On viewing the scene from the deck by the early light of the next
morning's dawn, I could compare it with nothing but the painting
displayed in a theatre, and the quiet that reigned in that still hour,
added greatly to the effect. The background of mountains piercing the
clouds; the foreground being formed by the town itself with its houses
of various hues, and picturesque styles of architecture, ascending the
mountain's side, and villas, and country seats aiding the perspective,
whilst the island of Cobras served as a side scene.
Around us stretched for leagues this splendid harbor, upon whose broad
bosom lay vessels of every nation (and which appeared capable of bearing
the fleets of the world), fringed by hills whose verdure seemed undying,
over which were spread the beautiful trees of a tropical clime.
An opportunity at last occurred of setting foot upon terra firma once
more, which was as gladly embraced--permission having been granted to
visit the shore opposite to Rio, where is the village of San Domingo and
the Praya Grande; with several officers we were pulled in the second
cutter to intercept one of those graceful lateen rigged boats, called
"felloas," which are seen in such numbers flitting in every direction
over these beautiful waters. As soon as we were landed at the village,
there ensued an amusing scene in paying for our passage. The sum of two
"dumps" (about four cents in the currency of the United States), each,
being demanded, we placed our quotas as nearly as we could make them, in
the hands of one of the party, who acted as spokesman, who tendered the
commandante of the felloa one of our silver coins, much greater in
value than the aggregate sum of our passage money,--which was
indignantly refused by the tawny Brazilian, who was immediately assailed
by each member of the party
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