is not so great as it appears from the bay. Within them the
houses are of a better style of architecture than those of the suburbs,
and the streets through which I drove were well graded, even and clean;
but life was wanting here, and the solitary soldier at his post was the
only thing human I saw; however, my visit was not well timed, being at
the hour when the Senoras are supposed to be taking their siestas, and
my object was merely to see what kind of a place it was. Upon a future
occasion saw it to more advantage.

I refer to my diary, from which make the following extracts.

_Monday, the eighteenth of February._--Returned on board from another
trip to the shore, last night at twelve, and have seen so many sights,
that I scarcely know in what manner to record them; perhaps the best
plan is to detail them, seriatim.

Left the ship on Saturday morning, in the ten o'clock boat, and reaching
the hotel, remained there until dinner, occupying time in reading and
taking a bath. After dinner drove out to the Calcada, around it to the
front of the city and the mole; walked upon the mole for an hour or
more, when the moon rose. It was full and bright; never had seen such
splendid moonlight. Had a sentimental friend with me, upon whom it
operated powerfully. He remarked, "What a treat it would be to have by
your side, in such a scene, one whom you loved, and who could love you!"

Finding the fit strong upon him, made the cochero drive off the Prado
directly, and take us to the "Circo Olympico"--its opening night. Paid
six reals each for admission and had our money's worth.

The performers were all Indians, excepting the proprietor, who was
himself a native of _la belle France_. The horses were "_native_" if not
to "the _manner_ born." Nice little nags, these ponies of Manilla. The
Frenchman had trained the _menage_, both Indians and horses, and
promised the enlightened public a treat such as had never been offered
before. His place was well arranged, and we had tickets stamped _a la
premiere lunette_--to the dress circle. In it were several very tastily
dressed and rather handsome ladies--brunettes of course. The performance
had commenced before we entered, and at that time the act in progress
was that of jumping and turning somersets over a poor and patient
quadruped of the equine species. There was no clown in "propria
persona," but a poor _Mestizo_ supplied the place of one, for being so
unfortunate as to make some awk