" to which stream it hears some
resemblance.]

CHAPTER XVI.

Shanghae--Immense number of Junks--Foreign Residences--Novelty
of Chimneys--Revolting appearance of Beggars--Undertakers
--Price of Coffins--Decline Trading--Description of City
--Stagnant Pools--Tea Gardens--Sweet Site--The Taoutae--
Advantages of Shanghae--Departure--Ship Ashore!--Sensation.

Shanghae is situated in about 30 deg. 26' N. latitude; longitude 120 deg. 48'
East. Reached it on the 16th of May, and came to anchor about one mile
below its walls, off the dwellings of the foreign residents. As we
approached, were struck with the appearance of a forest of masts,
belonging to junks in front of the city; in fact, these were all we
could see, as they completely shut out a view of the city from our
position.

Although suffering from sickness, could not resist the desire to get on
shore, and accordingly landed amongst the residents' houses the first
opportunity. These are built entirely in the European style, and some of
them present a fine appearance. The climate in the winter season
compelling the use of fire, they are all provided with chimneys, which
was a feature remarkable at once, it being unusual on the southern
coast. From these houses, as you approach the city, you enter upon a
scene of filth and dirt indescribable, and have to pass through a line
of beggars, who exhibit the most loathsome and revolting sores, to
excite the pity of the passer-by.

In approaching the city, had to skirt a graveyard, where the coffins are
placed above ground, and left there until their contents are decomposed,
when they are removed, to make place for others. In the neighborhood are
numerous coffin makers, and the trade appears to be thriving, from the
numbers engaged at it. Our guide informed me that I could procure one of
these "accommodations" at prices varying from five to five hundred
dollars. I declined trading for them, however, considering _that_ a
negotiation to be entered into by "sorrowing friends."

Entered the city through a double gateway, having had to cross a fetid,
shallow ditch before the walls.

Shanghae is a walled city, and in its appearance much like other Chinese
towns, only it was more filthy than any I had yet visited. Crossed a
number of stagnant pools, over bridges much too good for such stinking
streams, being, in their architecture, entirely out of keeping with the
other properties. Saw a great many Tea Gardens,