residents avail themselves of the broad river to launch
and sail their most beautiful boats, as also to use the hong boats,
san-pans, fast, and flower-boats, fitted up in every style of luxury.
In these, after the business of the day is over, and the heat of the
sun abated, parties pass their evenings, in smoking segars and
conversation.

Across the river are some Buddhist temples, in which shaven priests are
almost continually engaged in "chin chinnings," and where are kept some
holy pigs in a state of continual surfeit. The very last animal I should
think of holding sacred.

There are some gardens in the suburbs of Canton, said to be worthy of a
visit, but these I had no opportunity to see.

After exhausting my patience and finances at "Acow's," I returned to the
ship to explore the environs of Whampoa. Our anchorage was at the head
of the Reach, opposite a ship yard in "Newtown," where a large ship, the
Prince de Joinville, was then in dock undergoing repairs. This yard was
at that time in the possession of a Mr. Cowper, a yankee, if I am not
misinformed, but had been originally established by a Chinaman. Every
thing necessary for repairing a vessel appeared to be on hand, and Mr.
C. was then engaged in coppering the one on his dock.

Whampoa Reach is the anchorage for merchantmen, and is the most
convenient place to Canton for that purpose. A large number of vessels
were here receiving and awaiting cargoes, and the daily arrivals and
departures of ships give it a cheerful aspect.

The old town of Whampoa is strictly Chinese, and separated from contact
with the "outside barbarian," as much as is Canton, by its walls. It is
true, you may be allowed to pass its gates, but run a risk of being
hustled and pelted out of their vicinity.

Newtown is composed of traders, who are gradually leaving the "old
town," which is some distance below, and is called Bamboo town. Both of
these places are accessible, and have the interminable lane of shops,
all the "same same," as in Canton.

Called upon Mr. Bonny, an American Missionary, who was then a resident
at Newtown, but who hoped soon to settle in Whampoa, and was making
arrangements for a house within its walls. He appeared devoted to his
vocation, with strong hopes of success. Found him (it was night) engaged
with several Chinese, the principal men of the village, to whom he was
exhibiting a magic lantern, with which they seemed greatly pleased. It
was a very superior i