lay of money. A few miles before we reached Paris, we
stopped at the little village of Enghein, and it seemed to me that I
never in my life had dreamed of so fairy-like a place. Beautiful lakes,
rivers, fountains, flowers, and trees were scattered over the village
with exquisite taste. To this place, on Sundays and holidays, the people
of Paris repair, and dance in its cheap gardens and drink cheap wines.
When we reached Paris my trunks were again searched and underwent a
short examination, to see that no wines or provisions were concealed in
them. A tax is laid upon all such articles when they enter the city, and
this is the reason why on Sunday the people flock out of town to enjoy
their _fetes_. In the country there are no taxes on wine and edibles,
and as a matter of economy they go outside of the walls for their
pleasure.
When my baggage was examined, I took an omnibus to the hotel Bedford,
Rue de l'Arcade, where I proposed to stay but a few days, until I could
hunt up permanent apartments. My room was a delightful one and fitted up
in elegant style. I was in the best part of Paris. Two minutes walk away
were the _Champs Elysees_--the Madeleine church, the Tuileries, etc.,
etc. But I was too tired to go out, and after a French dinner and a
lounge in the reading-room, I went to sleep, and the next morning's sun
found me at last entirely recovered from my wretched passage across the
channel.
My second trip to Paris was in many respects different from the
first--which I have just described. The route was a new one, and
pleasanter than that _via_ Boulogne. Our party took an express train
from the London bridge terminus for Newhaven, a small sea-port. The cars
were fitted up with every comfort, and we made the passage in quick
time. At three P.M. we went on board a little steamer for Dieppe, where
we arrived at nine o'clock. After a delay of an hour we entered a
railway carriage fitted up in a very beautiful and luxurious style. At
Dieppe we had no trouble with our passports, keeping the originals, and
simply showing them to the custom-house officials. Our ride to Paris was
in the night, yet was very comfortable.
In coming back to London, we made the trip to Dieppe in the daytime, and
found it to be very beautiful. From Paris to Rouen the railway runs a
great share of the way in sight of the river Seine, and often upon its
banks. Many of the views from the train were romantic, and some of them
wildly grand. Upon
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