ur of interior, no
city in the world, except Rome, can excel them. The church of the
Madeleine is the most imposing of all; indeed, it seemed to me that in
all Paris there was no other building so pretentious. But Notre Dame has
that mellow quality which beautifies all architecture--hoary age.

I started out one morning to see it, crossing on my way one of the
bridges to _Isle la Cite_, and was soon in sight of the two majestic
towers of the old cathedral. You can see them, in fact, from all parts
of Paris, rising magnificently from the little island city, like beacons
for the weary sailor.

The morning was just such an one as Paris delights to furnish in the
month of June--fair, clear, and exhilarating--no London fog, mud, or
rain, but as soft a sky as ever I saw in America. We stopped a moment
before the church, to gaze at the high-reaching columns, and admire the
general architecture of the church. Workmen were scattered over
different portions of the building and towers, (this was on my first
visit to Paris,) engaged in renewing their ancient beauty. My first
emotion upon entering, was one of disappointment, for although
externally Notre Dame is the finest church in Paris, internally it is
gloomy, exceedingly simple, and has an air of faded beauty. Still, the
"long-drawn aisles" were very fine. Gazing aloft, the eye ached to watch
the beautiful arches meet far above. Then to look away horizontally on
either hand through the graceful aisles, filled one with pleasure.

I scarcely know how, but as I was passing a little altar where a priest
was saying mass, I unaccountably put my cap upon my head. I was
instantly required to take it off. I was reminded of the fact that but a
few days before, when entering a Jewish synagogue, upon taking off my
hat, I was instantly required to replace it. Such is the difference
between the etiquette of a Catholic church and a Jewish synagogue.

I noticed that the threshold of Notre Dame, like that of St. Germain
l'Auxerrois, was very much worn away by the feet of the crowds who have
crossed it during many centuries. The organ is an excellent one. It is
forty-five feet high, thirty-six broad, and has three thousand four
hundred and eighty-four pipes. Its power is great, and as the organist
touched some of the lower notes, the cathedral walls reverberated with
the sound.

The _Porte Rouge_ is a splendidly sculptured door-way. Under the
arch-way there is a sculpture of Jesus Christ an