mounting the most terrific precipice, we had to pass
through a tremendous defile, where the closing chasm seemed to threaten
us with instant destruction, when, turning quickly, verdant meadows and a
beautiful lake relieved and charmed my eyes.
I had never travelled through Switzerland, but one of my companions
assured me that I should not there find anything superior, if equal, to
the wild grandeur of these views.
As we had not taken this excursion into our plan, the horses had not been
previously ordered, which obliged us to wait two hours at the first post.
The day was wearing away. The road was so bad that walking up the
precipices consumed the time insensibly; but as we desired horses at each
post ready at a certain hour, we reckoned on returning more speedily.
We stopped to dine at a tolerable farm; they brought us out ham, butter,
cheese, and milk, and the charge was so moderate that I scattered a
little money amongst the children who were peeping at us, in order to pay
them for their trouble.
Arrived at the ferry, we were still detained, for the people who attend
at the ferries have a stupid kind of sluggishness in their manner, which
is very provoking when you are in haste. At present I did not feel it,
for, scrambling up the cliffs, my eye followed the river as it rolled
between the grand rocky banks; and, to complete the scenery, they were
covered with firs and pines, through which the wind rustled as if it were
lulling itself to sleep with the declining sun.
Behold us now in Norway; and I could not avoid feeling surprise at
observing the difference in the manners of the inhabitants of the two
sides of the river, for everything shows that the Norwegians are more
industrious and more opulent. The Swedes (for neighbours are seldom the
best friends) accuse the Norwegians of knavery, and they retaliate by
bringing a charge of hypocrisy against the Swedes. Local circumstances
probably render both unjust, speaking from their feelings rather than
reason; and is this astonishing when we consider that most writers of
travels have done the same, whose works have served as materials for the
compilers of universal histories? All are eager to give a national
character, which is rarely just, because they do not discriminate the
natural from the acquired difference. The natural, I believe, on due
consideration, will be found to consist merely in the degree of vivacity,
or thoughtfulness, pleasures or pain, in
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