ght to have been where provision is so cheap. Indeed, they seem to
consider foreigners as strangers whom they shall never see again, and may
fairly pluck. And the inhabitants of the western coast, isolated, as it
were, regard those of the east almost as strangers. Each town in that
quarter seems to be a great family, suspicious of every other, allowing
none to cheat them but themselves; and, right or wrong, they support one
another in the face of justice.

On this journey I was fortunate enough to have one companion with more
enlarged views than the generality of his countrymen, who spoke English
tolerably.

I was informed that we might still advance a mile and a quarter in our
cabrioles; afterwards there was no choice, but of a single horse and
wretched path, or a boat, the usual mode of travelling.

We therefore sent our baggage forward in the boat, and followed rather
slowly, for the road was rocky and sandy. We passed, however, through
several beech groves, which still delighted me by the freshness of their
light green foliage, and the elegance of their assemblage, forming
retreats to veil without obscuring the sun.

I was surprised, at approaching the water, to find a little cluster of
houses pleasantly situated, and an excellent inn. I could have wished to
have remained there all night; but as the wind was fair, and the evening
fine, I was afraid to trust to the wind--the uncertain wind of to-morrow.
We therefore left Helgeraac immediately with the declining sun.

Though we were in the open sea, we sailed more amongst the rocks and
islands than in my passage from Stromstad; and they often forced very
picturesque combinations. Few of the high ridges were entirely bare; the
seeds of some pines or firs had been wafted by the winds or waves, and
they stood to brave the elements.

Sitting, then, in a little boat on the ocean, amidst strangers, with
sorrow and care pressing hard on me--buffeting me about from clime to
clime--I felt

"Like the lone shrub at random cast,
That sighs and trembles at each blast!"

On some of the largest rocks there were actually groves, the retreat of
foxes and hares, which, I suppose, had tripped over the ice during the
winter, without thinking to regain the main land before the thaw.

Several of the islands were inhabited by pilots; and the Norwegian pilots
are allowed to be the best in the world--perfectly acquainted with their
coast, and ever at hand to observe the