n I mentioned, soon after I finished my
last letter. The sea was rough, and I perceived that our pilot was right
not to venture farther during a hazy night. We had agreed to pay four
dollars for a boat from Helgeraac. I mention the sum, because they would
demand twice as much from a stranger. I was obliged to pay fifteen for
the one I hired at Stromstad. When we were ready to set out, our boatman
offered to return a dollar and let us go in one of the boats of the
place, the pilot who lived there being better acquainted with the coast.
He only demanded a dollar and a half, which was reasonable. I found him
a civil and rather intelligent man; he was in the American service
several years, during the Revolution.

I soon perceived that an experienced mariner was necessary to guide us,
for we were continually obliged to tack about, to avoid the rocks, which,
scarcely reaching to the surface of the water, could only be discovered
by the breaking of the waves over them.

The view of this wild coast, as we sailed along it, afforded me a
continual subject for meditation. I anticipated the future improvement
of the world, and observed how much man has still to do to obtain of the
earth all it could yield. I even carried my speculations so far as to
advance a million or two of years to the moment when the earth would
perhaps be so perfectly cultivated, and so completely peopled, as to
render it necessary to inhabit every spot--yes, these bleak shores.
Imagination went still farther, and pictured the state of man when the
earth could no longer support him. Whither was he to flee from universal
famine? Do not smile; I really became distressed for these fellow
creatures yet unborn. The images fastened on me, and the world appeared
a vast prison. I was soon to be in a smaller one--for no other name can
I give to Rusoer. It would be difficult to form an idea of the place, if
you have never seen one of these rocky coasts.

We were a considerable time entering amongst the islands, before we saw
about two hundred houses crowded together under a very high rock--still
higher appearing above. Talk not of Bastilles! To be born here was to
be bastilled by nature--shut out from all that opens the understanding,
or enlarges the heart. Huddled one behind another, not more than a
quarter of the dwellings even had a prospect of the sea. A few planks
formed passages from house to house, which you must often scale, mounting
steps li