ent in a great city, these shady walks should be reckoned amongst
the advantages procured by the Government for the inhabitants. I like
them better than the Royal Gardens, also open to the public, because the
latter seem sunk in the heart of the city, to concentrate its fogs.
The canals which intersect the streets are equally convenient and
wholesome; but the view of the sea commanded by the town had little to
interest me whilst the remembrance of the various bold and picturesque
shores I had seen was fresh in my memory. Still the opulent inhabitants,
who seldom go abroad, must find the spots were they fix their country
seats much pleasanter on account of the vicinity of the ocean.
One of the best streets in Copenhagen is almost filled with hospitals,
erected by the Government, and, I am assured, as well regulated as
institutions of this kind are in any country; but whether hospitals or
workhouses are anywhere superintended with sufficient humanity I have
frequently had reason to doubt.
The autumn is so uncommonly fine that I am unwilling to put off my
journey to Hamburg much longer, lest the weather should alter suddenly,
and the chilly harbingers of winter catch me here, where I have nothing
now to detain me but the hospitality of the families to whom I had
recommendatory letters. I lodged at an hotel situated in a large open
square, where the troops exercise and the market is kept. My apartments
were very good; and on account of the fire I was told that I should be
charged very high; yet, paying my bill just now, I find the demands much
lower in proportion than in Norway, though my dinners were in every
respect better.
I have remained more at home since I arrived at Copenhagen than I ought
to have done in a strange place, but the mind is not always equally
active in search of information, and my oppressed heart too often sighs
out--
"How dull, flat, and unprofitable
Are to me all the usages of this world:
That it should come to this!"
Farewell! Fare thee well, I say; if thou canst, repeat the adieu in a
different tone.
LETTER XXII.
I arrived at Corsoer the night after I quitted Copenhagen, purposing to
take my passage across the Great Belt the next morning, though the
weather was rather boisterous. It is about four-and-twenty miles but as
both I and my little girl are never attacked by sea-sickness--though who
can avoid _ennui_?--I enter a boat with the same indifference as I
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