y
set out again for Norway, purposing to land much higher up the coast.
Wrapping my great-coat round me, I lay down on some sails at the bottom
of the boat, its motion rocking me to rest, till a discourteous wave
interrupted my slumbers, and obliged me to rise and feel a solitariness
which was not so soothing as that of the past night.
Adieu!
LETTER VI.
The sea was boisterous, but, as I had an experienced pilot, I did not
apprehend any danger. Sometimes, I was told, boats are driven far out
and lost. However, I seldom calculate chances so nicely--sufficient for
the day is the obvious evil!
We had to steer amongst islands and huge rocks, rarely losing sight of
the shore, though it now and then appeared only a mist that bordered the
water's edge. The pilot assured me that the numerous harbours on the
Norway coast were very safe, and the pilot-boats were always on the
watch. The Swedish side is very dangerous, I am also informed; and the
help of experience is not often at hand to enable strange vessels to
steer clear of the rocks, which lurk below the water close to the shore.
There are no tides here, nor in the Cattegate, and, what appeared to me a
consequence, no sandy beach. Perhaps this observation has been made
before; but it did not occur to me till I saw the waves continually
beating against the bare rocks, without ever receding to leave a sediment
to harden.
The wind was fair, till we had to tack about in order to enter Laurvig,
where we arrived towards three o'clock in the afternoon. It is a clean,
pleasant town, with a considerable iron-work, which gives life to it.
As the Norwegians do not frequently see travellers, they are very curious
to know their business, and who they are--so curious, that I was half
tempted to adopt Dr. Franklin's plan, when travelling in America, where
they are equally prying, which was to write on a paper, for public
inspection, my name, from whence I came, where I was going, and what was
my business. But if I were importuned by their curiosity, their friendly
gestures gratified me. A woman coming alone interested them. And I know
not whether my weariness gave me a look of peculiar delicacy, but they
approached to assist me, and inquire after my wants, as if they were
afraid to hurt, and wished to protect me. The sympathy I inspired, thus
dropping down from the clouds in a strange land, affected me more than it
would have done had not my spirits been h
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