on all the queer roofs and the slenderest pinnacles
and most delicate architectural ornamentations. The city spires had a
mysterious appearance in the gray haze; and above all, the round-topped
towers of the old Frauenkirche, frosted with a little snow, loomed up
more grandly than ever. When I went around to the Hof Garden, where I
late had sat in the sun, and heard the brown horse-chestnuts drop on
the leaves, the benches were now full of snow, and the fat and friendly
fruit-woman at the gate had retired behind glass windows into a little
shop, which she might well warm by her own person, if she radiated heat
as readily as she used to absorb it on the warm autumn days, when I have
marked her knitting in the sunshine.

But we are not moving. The first step we took was to advertise our wants
in the "Neueste Nachrichten" ("Latest News ") newspaper. We desired, if
possible, admission into some respectable German family, where we should
be forced to speak German, and in which our society, if I may so express
it, would be some compensation for our bad grammar. We wished also
to live in the central part of the city,--in short, in the immediate
neighborhood of all the objects of interest (which are here very much
scattered), and to have pleasant rooms. In Dresden, where the people
are not so rich as in Munich, and where different customs prevail, it
is customary for the best people, I mean the families of university
professors, for instance, to take in foreigners, and give them tolerable
food and a liberal education. Here it is otherwise. Nearly all families
occupy one floor of a building, renting just rooms enough for the
family, so that their apartments are not elastic enough to take in
strangers, even if they desire to do so. And generally they do not.
Munich society is perhaps chargeable with being a little stiff and
exclusive. Well, we advertised in the "Neueste Nachrichten." This is
the liberal paper of Munich. It is a poorly printed, black-looking daily
sheet, folded in octavo size, and containing anywhere from sixteen to
thirty-four pages, more or less, as it happens to have advertisements.
It sometimes will not have more than two or three pages of reading
matter. There will be a scrap or two of local news, the brief telegrams
taken from the official paper of the day before, a bit or two of other
news, and perhaps a short and slashing editorial on the ultramontane
party. The advantage of printing and folding it in such